Check whether the holes in the bottom of the container are passable and that water drainage is guaranteed.
Pour a layer of expanded clay (approx. 5 cm) into the bottom of the container and place non-woven material over it. Then pour in some potting soil.
If necessary, trim the tub plant and remove any dead parts. Remove from the old container. Cut and loosen strongly rooted root bales.
Place the plant in the new container so that the surface of the root bale is as high as before. Fill up with potting soil all around the plant. Work long-term fertiliser into the top layer of soil. Water generously.
The water requirement of the tub plants is high on sunny, warm days. They must be watered regularly. Automatic irrigation systems are ideal.
As soon as the nutrients in the container have been used up (take note of the product information), the plant be refertilised. This can be done with solid fertiliser, fertiliser sticks, or liquid fertiliser.
Non-perennial plants (citrus, bougainvillea, etc.) must be moved to a sheltered winter area before the first frost sets in. The area should be bright with a temperature around 10 °C. Before placing them in the winter area, check plants for parasite infestation and remove any existing parasites.
As soon as the danger of night frost in spring is over, the tub plants can be moved outside again (be careful of sunburn in the first few days!). If necessary, they are trimmed and given long-term fertiliser.
Tub plants require little water and no fertiliser in the winter. The wintering room should be ventilated regularly. The lighter it is, the better the tub plants can survive over the winter period.
Many garden centres and nurseries offer a wintering service for pot plants. The plants spend the winter in a greenhouse under ideal light and temperature conditions.
There are also perennial tub plants (conifers and others). They must be placed in frost-proof containers. To avoid rapid freezing and thawing, the containers are wrapped in non-woven material, jute, etc. in the winter.